Suddenly the time had come to get back on the travelling buzz and head to the warmer climes of Morocco. After a full english breakfast it was time to say goodbye to Nick’s brother who is heading back to NZ as well as Anna (who we had been staying with) who was also heading home but not before 6 months in Central and South America. Now have we talked about English weather? Well it had largely been fantastic until early Sunday morning the fog rolled in (creating lovely images) but closing airports. Luckily our 3.30pm flight was able to leave but not until 7.30pm meaning a rather late arrival in Marrakech.
The pre booked taxi was totally worth it as it saved us having to negotiate our way through the rabbit warren of the old city to find our hostel. Piping hot cups of mint tea greeted us on arrival which were much needed. Feeling rejuvenated after a good sleep, and traditional breakfast we hit the busy markets we had heard so much about. We were instantly lost not that that was a bad thing as there was so much to see. The narrow streets are like a real live maze stacked full of produce and crafts or every shape and colour. Although keen to make a sale the locals were friendly enough and nowhere near as aggressive and in your face as we expected.
Lucy was dying to sample the local tajine for dinner so we hit the main square which was heaving. Despite every restaurant owner claiming to be the best we finally settled on one and ordered meat targine and meat couscous. Although they said it was beef it clearly was camel but tasted pretty good.
As we had to be back in Marrakech in 4 days to meet up with Tim (who we had been staying with in London) we set off on the long journey to Chefchouen, the famed blue city. We got the train most of the way before a bus took us the last wee bit and although comfortable and hassle free it was a long tiring day but with great scenery. Another bright sunny day greeted us as we tucked into delicious Moroccan crepes drizzled in honey. We then set about buying some local produce for a picnic lunch which we planned on eating at a mosque overlooking the city. The produce from the markets is very cheap and so good. My favourite was the olives and fresh rolls, although the dried figs and caramel roasted peanuts are also pretty tasty.
After climbing to the mosque we set about discovering the ins and outs of the blue alleyways. The blue is to meant to ward off plagues of Mosquitos but either way it certainly makes for interesting viewing. Every turn presented another photo op especially in the late afternoon sun but once this had set it was time to fill our bellies once again and you guessed it it was another tajine washed down with more mint tea!
Departing the tranquil city of Chefchouen with a bag full of 2 dirham (30 cent) chocolate croissants we piled into a bus bound for Fez. Although it was an upgrade from the chicken buses in Central it still was hot and stuffy and very full and there defiantly was not the same politeness with men not vacating their seats for women and the elderly.
To our surprise we managed to navigate our way through the maze of Fez and with a little bargaining find ourselves a great hostel with very helpful, friendly staff. We only had half a day so we ripped around the gardens and and watched the sunset from some old ruins overlooking the city before navigating through the alleys back to our hostel. We didn't realise but it was a holiday so the majority of the market stalls were closed meaning the streets were very quiet. Dinner was a great fresh bun filled with a mixture of bbq meat and onion washed down with fresh mint tea and an orange for desert all for less than $2.
We opted for the comfort of the train to take us back South to meet Tim in Marrakech. After getting slightly lost in the maize of the medina we managed to reunite. We had another day to explore Marrakech together before our excursion to the desert. Having booked this we set about walking, talking, bargaining and sampling the local produce with Lucy picking up a nice pashmina and the boys leading on poor shop keepers. Apparently beer was served at a bar overlooking the main square so we headed there for sunset only to find coke to relieve our parched throats.
After a quick pastry and banana for breakfast and we were off to the Sahara although not before a fair bit of mucking around on our drivers behalf. First photo stop was half way up the high Atlas Mountains which proved to be very spectacular especially if you understood a little geology. The scenery was great as we slowly made our way up to 2260m before descending down to the Unesco heritage site of Ait he'd beddon. This old fortified town used to provide shelter for the travelling camel caravans but now is popular with movie makers with gladiator, game of thrones and others filmed here.
Although we were told everything was included in our tour except lunch we were a little aggrieved when the Berber guide asked for money. This resulted in a heated exchange and further distrust towards the local people. Unfortunately for our driver no one in our group was prepared to eat at the ridiculously overpriced restaurant he has to stop at. Luckily for us we had prepared earlier a nice wee picnic of nuts, bread, fruit and great tasting dates which saw us through a few more photo stops and a lot of driving to reach our hotel.
Our whole group was up early and eagerly awaiting to depart for the desert but before we reached it we visited a spectacular gorge, local village gardens and a family who hand make beautiful woollen carpets that unfortunately wouldn't have fitted into our small backpacks. The landscape got progressively drier until finally in the distance golden dunes appeared. Boy what a picture they were in the afternoon sunlight. Saddling up some big smelly camels we set off for our Berber desert camp.
The camels were much easier and more comfortable to ride than a Cuban horse but after nearly two hours we were all ready to jump off and play in the worlds biggest sandpit. Rolling and jumping in and throwing the fine red sand was like reliving a childhood dream but before it got dark we had to race to the top of the highest dune to watch the sun disappear. After a dinner of couscous, vegetables and chicken we donned thick blankets and hit the dunes for a spot of star gazing seeing a number of shooting stars.
Being rudely awaken at 5am we wrapped up warm and packed up our bags before saddling up on our moaning old camels. The first part of our camel ride out was under the dark stary sky before the horizon slowly lit up and revealed another nice sunny day. Hot mint tea helped to warm us up after dismounting our camels and after a feed of omelettes, bread and jam we hit the road for the long drive back to Marrakech. We took a slightly different route back which proved to be just as scenic especially the folded and faulted nature of the lower Atlas Mountains and the dry grassy plans dotted with trees which looked stereotypical Africa.
Arriving back in Marrakech tired but satisfied with our adventure into the desert we had to set about planning the next few days but not before a quarter chicken and freshly squeezed orange juice each. The wee orange juice carts in Marrakech are world famous for good reason as for 4 Durham (60 cents) you get a glass of the best juice. Deciding on a bit of beach time we set off to Essouira after a lazy start. The main highway and extra $$ for the nice bus meant a smooth ride and upon disembarking it was on to the beach promenade. The huge beach was relatively deserted and the strong summer winds absent which made for a nice stroll into the old town in search of some accommodation. In Morocco there are always people wanting to help you, normally for a small fee but occasionally not. Mohamed was a young surfer guy who probably wished he had just let us walk by as we set about driving a very hard bargain on a place to stay, by the third hostel we were satisfied and settled in.
The hostels in Morocco have been some of the best we have encountered on our travels with most having a nice terrace and central atrium lounge perfect for eating the delicious fresh fish filled sandwiches which were so cheap in Essouira. Having already ticked off some huge geographical landmarks on this trip including the African continent, High Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert it was time to tick off another with our first swim in the Atlantic Ocean. Although not as crystal clear and inviting as our beloved Pacific it still provide the same cool refreshing sensation and perfect backdrop to a setting sun.
After a leisurely breakfast and a nice stroll along the beach it was time for a little work out as the boys went for a run and continued the daily routine of 10 down press ups. Unfortunately the surf was flat so instead we opted to check out the local fishing boats and their catch which consisted of all sorts of fish big and small and also plenty of hungry cats looking for a feed. Cats seem to be everywhere in Morocco which is not particularly pleasant. Being Friday night we thought we had earned a cold beer and to our relief their was a tiny “hole in the wall” bar overlooking the beach which served ice cold but kinda expensive beer, they hardly touched the sides!
The next morning it was time to say goodbye to Tim who had been a fantastic travel buddy for the last week as he was off back to the London grind. After putting him on a bus and sorting out one for ourselves the next day we tried to get to the beach on the north side only to be thwarted by 12 foot high walls. We did however discover the old fort complete with a large arsenal of cannons and seagulls. With our days fast running out until we start work it was time to drag Nick into a local barber and sharpen him up. Wow what a process, the young barber was stoked to have a foreigner in his shop and did an immaculate job removing the mullet. Next came the 3 and a half month beard and after battling through the scrub with a weed eater it was time for the cut throat. It took the biggest brand new blade before a fresh smooth faced boy appeared.
What a change, Nick was hardly recognisable and no longer got all the attention of the local shop owners shouting Alibaba (a famous movie man who was white, rich, had a big beard oh and had 40 wives) but had lost his ability to intimidate persistent local touts. Note to fellow travellers, big scruffy beards do the world of good at warding off little weasel touts.
With only a couple more nights left in this cool sunny country we headed further south to the wee surf town of Taghozout where we hoped to catch a wave. Although the local board renters informed us the waves were excellent they were tiny and not worth renting a board for so instead it was time for some rays and for Nick to loose his beard tan lines. We didn't do much to be fair, a long walk along the beach one day and a run the next plus a few swims, ice cream, pizza and fresh fish and before we knew it we were on the bus back once again to Marrakech for our flight back to cold old London.
We were surprised with level of construction occurring in Morocco with a huge resort complete with about a dozen pools and numerous golf courses being built on the waterfront in Taghozout. This will certainly change the atmosphere of the place but maybe it might bring improved services to the area and treat some of the sewage that currently just drains untreated straight into the ocean.
One unfortunate lasting memory from Morocco was the huge amounts of plastic bags and other plastic rubbish discarded and left to blow over the barren flat land for miles. Not only unsightly it must be a real problem to the farmers trying to plough and seed their land not to mention the problems it causes to our marine life.
